Lanzarote – black, white and everything inbetween

Our days exploring Madeira will remain a vivid and unexpectantly wonderful memory but the wind gods were talking and we had to listen!   Madeira quickly disappeared from sight as we made our way south east and we were once again alone in the ocean with our buddy boat, Andrew and Traci on Walkabout, for company, visible on AIS and a comforting masthead light in the distance at night.   Walkabout is a bigger, newer, lighter and faster boat than us so, with winds of between 10 – 15knots they were soon eight miles ahead as we ploughed through the building seas that they seemed to glide over!   As night fell, we reefed the main and prepared for the forecast increased winds.   Cerulean came alive as the winds increased to 20knots and we made great speed, shortening the distance between us and Walkabout.  The wind was coming on our side, which is the perfect point of sail for us but the hydrovane was struggling to keep us on course.  Normally it would not be a problem to let her wander off a little but if we didn’t adjust we would have been too far north of Lanzarote, so we decided to hand steer for most of the passage.  

When I woke to take the watch at 3am, Steve had put another reef in the main as our speed hit over 10knots.  I was so proud of him, doing it on his own and keeping the boat safe and on course.   He has learned so much and is getting more confident in his decision-making and abilities.   We had calculated our passage speed at an average of 6knots, which is why we left at 11am the day before, to ensure we would not arrive in the dark.   Our average speed was over 7knots on this passage and we broke a new 24hour personal record, covering 157 nautical miles in 24hrs.   We approached the southern side of Lanzarote with Walkabout beside us.  They had completed most of the passage on jib only as the winds increased and with the knowledge that winds can accelerate considerably close to Lanzarote, we took the main sail down and proceeded under a reefed staysail only and we were still making over 5knots of speed!   It was with relief and a small sigh of satisfaction, that we anchored at Playa Blanco, outside Rubicon Marina on the south side of Lanzarote which is protected from the Atlantic swell.   We slept for a few hours before moving into the marina where we had booked a berth for a few nights – our first stay in a marina for over 90 days.

We soon settled into the relaxed and sociable environment at the marina which was full of boats from all over the world, most of whom where heading across The Atlantic.  We were all drawn together by a common dream of sailing across oceans, and we shared the trait that we had all taken risks and were open to new adventures.   Friendships between cruisers are made quickly and are either fleeting or last a lifetime.  We met some lovely people and shared drinks, food and time with a number of wonderful folk that we certainly hope will not be fleeting acquaintances with the intent to see them again in another part of the World. 

On board, we have four 220AH “service” batteries that are separate from our engine starter batteries.   The Service batteries provide power for our electronics, lights, electric sockets and other equipment.   Our solar panels charge up the batteries during the daytime, but we need to monitor how much we use and how well the panels are performing to make sure the batteries are fully charged each day to remain healthy.   We had noticed a significant change in how our batteries were performing and we were having problems getting them to fully charge each day.   As we had been monitoring them carefully, we saw there was a potential problem so while in the marina on shore power we were able to run some tests and establish what, if anything, we could do to rectify the issue.   We discovered that one of our batteries had died and, in normal circumstances the obvious solution would be to just replace the dead battery.   However, this is a boat and, because it is considered very bad practice to have batteries of different ages and also because we are a 24V boat so have two 12V batteries linked together, we decided we should bite the bullet and replace all four batteries.  The other problem was the only place that could source the batteries we wanted was in Tenerife so we arranged for the batteries to be delivered to a marina in Santa Cruz (the capital of Tenerife) and booked a space in the marina. 

Our second mission was to fill our butane gas bottles as we were getting very low on gas, which we use for cooking.   We learned of a place in Arrecife, about 40km north, which filled bottles and, as there were no cars available, hired a motorbike for a few days.   We knew the gas refill place closed early so we were not able to get there in time, but decided to head towards Arrecife and check out some other possible suppliers.   We must have looked a funny sight, two 6ft foreigners on a 125CC motorbike, knees almost on our chests, going full throttle in second gear up the steep hills and still only making 30KPH!   Once out of the marina the full barren landscape of the island became visible as we rode through the most incredible moonscape environment.   Black earth had been planted with vines which were dug into a hole and half surrounded by a wall made from volcanic rocks to protect them from the prevailing, drying winds.  Often, as far as you could see, there were fields of these vines, the landscape only broken by a white single storey building with an orange roof.   Where vines didn’t grow, cactus did and huge specimens were on show beside the road.   I was transfixed by the landscape.  It was hard to comprehend what we were looking at sometimes as it was such a foreign sight.   

Cesar Manrique was a celebrated local artist who also studied architecture in the 1960’s and his influence on the island is still very apparent today. Wanting to preserve the unique nature of the island, he somehow managed to convince the local council to write a condition in their planning regulations to encourage sustainable development and this is still recognised today with the lack of high-rise hotels and all buildings painted white.  Set against the black soil, villages nestled in valleys make an impressive landscape of contrast with the volcanic hills and black terrain as a backdrop.

We arrived in Arrecife, the capital of Lanzarote, and managed to exchange one of our small empty campingaz cylinders for a full one.  At least we now had enough gas for another month.  As we could only carry one cylinder on the motorbike, we felt relieved we had fulfilled this part of our challenge.   We headed back to the motorbike to find we had a flat tyre which may have explained the slightly wobbly journey there!  

Next day, armed with a new motorbike, we returned to Arrecife, this time with two of our larger empty butane gas bottles (one on my back and one in the storage box), hoping to get them filled at a gas distribution unit we had been told was the only place on the island, and one of only two places in The Canaries, that would fill empty bottles.   We negotiated the busy roads with me sitting on the back, clinging hold of Steve with one hand and the phone in the other, shouting directions as we were buffeted by the strong winds.   Our elation of finding the refill station was short-lived when we were firmly told they would not fill our bottles, but the reason for this was lost in gesticulating arms and language barrier.   Feeling disheartened we headed to the marina where we met Ruffian as they arrived in Arrecife.   Iain swapped places with me and, with him holding their empty gas cylinder, Steve returned to the refill station.   It was with surprise, pleasure for them, and (if I’m honest) a little envy, that they came back with a full gas bottle!    Still unsure why ours were not able to be filled, we left Ruffian with their full supply of gas and headed to the hills.    We drove back to the boat through the volcanic centre of the island, stopping regularly to take in the vast views set against deep blue skies.   I loved it.

After extending our stay in the marina a few times and saying goodbye to Andrew and Traci on Walkabout, we filled our fuel tank and headed out.   We motored into the wind to Playa Quemada, a short distance to the north and dropped the anchor in front of a small black sand beach which was only reachable via a steep long path.   We sat on deck watching the people on the beach, watching us as we bounced around in the exposed anchorage.   

The next day we motor-sailed into the wind, heading north and then rounding the top of Lanzarote.  Our destination was Graciosa, a small island to the west of Lanzarote with no roads, a few hundred residents, four volcanoes and lots of sand!   We had managed to get a permit to visit the island and stay for a few nights, although it appeared we were the only boat that had bothered to get permission and no-one came to check.   Ruffian had already arrived and I joined Iain for a late afternoon walk which started with the intention of climbing one of the volcanoes but ended in a short walk to the nearest pub!  

The next morning the four of us headed out, this time better prepared and more determined to reach the top of the volcano.   The climb was worth it and we were rewarded with wonderful views across to Lanzarote and over to the west of Graciosa.   We walked around the sunken crater of the volcano before heading back down the hill to find a good watering hole! 

After three days exploring it was time to leave and farewell Lanzarote.   The wind and weather looked ideal for the 160 NM sail to Tenerife and we were ready for another overnight passage to meet our new batteries which we had arranged to have delivered to the marina…… or so we thought!